Skin Care
Amino-peptides have been proven to naturally regenerate damaged skin, claims a recent magazine ad for Olay's new
Regenerist line. Pentapeptides, synthetic forms of five amino acids that occur naturally in the skin, are among the products'
ingredients. At a suggested retail price of $19 each for a six- to eight-week supply of regenerating serum, hydrating cream,
and lotion with sunscreen, do the Regenerist products work?
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The Food and Drug Administration does not require safety or efficacy studies for cosmetics. Olay's parent company, Procter
& Gamble, has funded such studies and provided a summary of the research. (Pentapeptides can also be
found in Chanel's Precision Age Delay Rejuvenation Serum.)
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In one Procter & Gamble study, 92 women ages 35 to 55 used either a moisturizer containing pentapeptides or a placebo.
Researchers concluded that compared with the placebo, the pentapeptide formula decreased the appearance of facial lines,
wrinkles, age spots, and dark undereye circles. In a small four-month, double-blind study conducted by Sederma, a French
maker of pentapeptides, the ingredient was compared with retinol (a vitamin A derivative). The pentapeptide formula was
found to reduce wrinkles slightly faster and without the inflammation associated with retinol.
Since the studies have not been published in a peer-reviewed scientific journal, we find it difficult to draw firm conclusions.
The experts we spoke with say pentapeptides seem safe and may help reduce skin wrinkling by bolstering collagen. If you
decide to try a pentapetide product, use it for three or four months, as in the clinical trials, and then decide for yourself if it's
working.
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